Switzerland in Winter: Glacier Express, Andermatt & Zermatt
Switzerland has always been one of my favourite countries to visit, and it holds an especially special place in my heart.
Switzerland was particularly beautiful during the winter months. Snow-covered mountains, festive villages and cosy hotels made the entire journey feel like a real-life Christmas postcard.
This guide focuses specifically on Andermatt and Zermatt, including our experience travelling between the two on the Glacier Express, staying at The Chedi Andermatt and Parkhotel Beau Site in Zermatt.
And there is another reason this trip will always be unforgettable for me: my husband proposed to me underneath the Matterhorn in Zermatt.
The Glacier Express
The Glacier Express is one of Switzerland's most famous scenic railway journeys.
The full route runs between Zermatt and St. Moritz and takes approximately 8 hours, travelling through some of the most spectacular scenery in the Swiss Alps.
The journey crosses 291 bridges and passes through 91 tunnels, with panoramic windows designed to give passengers unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains.
We travelled a section of the route between Andermatt and Zermatt, rather than doing the entire journey.
And this is something worth knowing if you're planning your own Swiss itinerary: you don't have to commit to the full eight-hour journey. The Glacier Express allows shorter sections of the route, although which shorter journeys are possible depends on the timetable and season.
Why the journey is so special
For me, the scenery was the highlight.
During winter, the landscape was completely transformed by snow. We travelled through valleys, mountains and small Alpine communities, with views constantly changing outside the windows.
It's also one of those travel experiences where the journey itself becomes an attraction.
You don't need to organise activities or constantly move from one sightseeing spot to another. You can simply sit back, watch the landscape and enjoy travelling through the Swiss Alps.
The train also has panoramic windows, onboard catering and an infotainment system with information about the journey and surrounding landscapes.
A fun fact
One of the most interesting points along the full Glacier Express route is the Oberalp Pass, which reaches 2,033 metres and is the highest point of the journey.
In winter, the lake at the pass can be completely covered in snow.
There is even a lighthouse at the pass — which sounds slightly strange when you're surrounded by mountains!
It represents the source of the Rhine at Lake Toma, with the Rhine eventually flowing all the way to the North Sea.
Is the Glacier Express family-friendly?
I travelled on the Glacier Express as a couple, before having my son, so I can't personally speak from experience as a parent.
However, I think scenic train travel can be particularly appealing for families.
You can experience some of Switzerland's incredible scenery without spending hours driving, and children can simply watch the mountains, snow and villages passing outside the windows.
It's also a nice way to build a slower day into a busy Swiss itinerary.
Important: A seat reservation is mandatory on the Glacier Express. Current timetables and operating dates should always be checked before booking, as services vary by season.
Andermatt
Andermatt is a small Alpine village in central Switzerland, surrounded by dramatic mountain scenery.
The village sits at around 1,440 metres above sea level and is particularly popular during winter for skiing and other Alpine activities.
For us, Andermatt was also home to one of the most memorable hotel stays of the entire trip.
The Chedi Andermatt
If I had to choose my favourite hotel stays from all the places I've travelled, The Chedi Andermatt would be very high on my list.
In fact, it's genuinely one of my all-time favourite hotels I've ever stayed in.
The hotel combines traditional Alpine influences with sophisticated Asian-inspired design, creating something that feels very different from a traditional Swiss mountain hotel.
The setting is a huge part of its appeal.
You're surrounded by the Swiss Alps, and during winter the snow-covered landscape makes the hotel feel incredibly cosy and atmospheric.
Rooms & Suites
The Chedi currently has 119 rooms and suites, including Alpine Deluxe Rooms, Junior Suites and larger multi-bedroom suites.
Some of the larger accommodation options are particularly suited to families, including two- and three-bedroom suites.
The rooms combine Alpine materials and design with luxury touches such as large soaking tubs, Hästens mattresses and Acqua di Parma bathroom products.
The Spa at The Chedi
One of the standout features of The Chedi is its 2,400-square-metre Spa & Health Club.
Facilities include:
35-metre indoor pool
Heated outdoor pool
Sauna area
Tibetan Relaxation Lounge
Health club
Technogym equipment
Yoga and Pilates
Personal training
Spa treatment rooms
Hydrothermal facilities
And this is where I have to add a personal recommendation.
I had one of the best massages I've ever experienced at The Chedi.
It's something I still remember years later.
After spending the day surrounded by snow and mountains, being able to come back to the hotel, relax in the spa and have a treatment made the whole stay feel incredibly indulgent.
Important for families
One thing to be aware of if you're travelling with children: the current rules state that the spa, hydrothermal and health club facilities are for guests aged 16 and over.
So while The Chedi can absolutely be part of a family trip to Andermatt, don't plan your itinerary around the spa if you're travelling with younger children.
Dining at The Chedi
The hotel also has several dining and drinking spaces, including:
The Restaurant
The Japanese Restaurant
The Bar and Living Room
The Wine Library
The Cigar Library
The Lobby
The Courtyard
The Kota
The Japanese restaurant has also received significant culinary recognition over the years, including a Michelin star in the past, although restaurant awards and distinctions can change, so I'd check the current status before travelling.
For me, though, the overall experience was what made The Chedi stand out.
It wasn't simply a hotel we returned to at the end of the day.
The hotel itself was part of the destination.
Zermatt
From Andermatt, we continued our Swiss train journey towards Zermatt.
And this is where Switzerland became particularly personal for me.
Zermatt is one of Switzerland's most famous mountain villages and is best known for the Matterhorn.
The village itself is surrounded by mountains and is a major destination for skiing and Alpine adventures.
One of the things that makes Zermatt particularly distinctive is that it has been car-free since 1961.
Visitors travelling by car generally leave their vehicles in Täsch and continue into Zermatt by train, while authorised electric vehicles operate within the village.
That gives Zermatt a very different atmosphere from many other mountain destinations.
During our winter visit, the combination of snow-covered streets, traditional buildings and the mountains surrounding the village made it feel incredibly festive.
Matterhorn Fun Fact
The Matterhorn isn't just famous for its shape.
It was also the inspiration behind the iconic Toblerone chocolate.
The triangular shape of the chocolate is famously associated with the shape of the Matterhorn, making this one of those fun Swiss facts that children are likely to appreciate too.
And standing underneath the real Matterhorn after growing up knowing it from Toblerone packaging makes the connection even more fun.
Parkhotel Beau Site, Zermatt
During our time in Zermatt, we stayed at Parkhotel Beau Site.
The hotel has an incredible hillside position overlooking Zermatt, with many of its rooms offering views towards the Matterhorn.
The property combines historic Alpine character with a more contemporary design following its renovation.
The original building dates back to 1907, giving the hotel a connection to Zermatt's historic mountaineering era.
Today, the hotel has 70 rooms and suites, with a number of accommodation options specifically designed around families.
Family accommodation
This is one area where Beau Site could be particularly interesting for families.
The hotel currently offers a 69-square-metre Family Room with two bedrooms and two bathrooms.
There is also a 77-square-metre Matterhorn Family Room, with two king-size beds, two bathrooms and two balconies, as well as views towards the Matterhorn.
That's a very different proposition from simply putting a family into one standard hotel room.
The Beau Site Spa
The hotel also has an extensive spa and wellness area.
Facilities include:
Indoor swimming pool
Heated outdoor infinity pool
Finnish sauna
Bio sauna
Hammam
Infrared cabin
Vitarium
Hay sauna overlooking the Matterhorn
Treatment rooms
Fitness room
The outdoor pool is particularly special because it offers views towards the Matterhorn.
For couples, there are also more romantic accommodation options, including the Tower Spa Suite, which features a private tower with 360-degree views of Zermatt and the Matterhorn, along with a spa bathroom, whirlpool and steam shower.
Switzerland with Kids
Although this particular trip was taken before we had our son, I can now see why Switzerland would work so well for a family holiday.
You have so many experiences that don't revolve around traditional sightseeing.
Children can experience:
Scenic train journeys
Snow and winter activities
Skiing and sledding
Mountain villages
Cable cars and mountain viewpoints
Outdoor adventures
Swiss chocolate
Incredible Alpine scenery
And perhaps one of the biggest advantages is that you can make the journey itself part of the holiday.
A train ride through the Alps isn't simply transportation.
It's an experience.
That's something I particularly appreciate when travelling with children.
Watch Our Full Video
🎥 Watch our Vienna experience on YouTube: The Atlas Journey, where we share our full review, tips and experience.
A Trip I'll Never Forget
Looking back at our 2016 footage almost ten years later, it's easy to focus on the fact that the image quality isn't what we can produce today.
But honestly, I love having it.
Because this trip wasn't just about the hotels or the scenery.
It was about the memories we made.
The Glacier Express.
The snow-covered mountains.
The cosy winter atmosphere.
The Chedi Andermatt — still one of my favourite hotels I've ever stayed in.
Zermatt.
The Matterhorn.
And getting engaged underneath that mountain.
Switzerland is one of those destinations that I could return to again and again, and I can completely understand why it has become such a popular destination for couples, families, skiers and anyone who simply wants to experience the Alps.
And if you're planning your own Swiss adventure, Andermatt and Zermatt are two places I'd definitely consider adding to the itinerary.
Just remember that you don't necessarily have to recreate our exact trip.
One of the great things about Switzerland is that you can build your journey around the places and experiences that appeal most to you — and let the train journey be part of the adventure along the way.